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  2. Hey All. Thanks for your patience while I updated and overhauled the forums! - Harry

PLA at my patience breaking point!

Discussion in 'The Printer' started by Dime333, Dec 28, 2013.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson Well-Known Member

    The only thing it would (potentially) impact is the fine tuning of the Z axis limit sensing. If that is working then there is no real need to test it.
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson Well-Known Member

    Putting in the Bed levelers that Tesseract made altered the height of the bed a bit and I had to adjust the height of the Z axis limit switch. I moved it up higher to give me more threads on the adjustment screw. From Robo3D it was darn near all the way IN just to get it set.
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly RoBo3D Forum Moderator Staff Member

    Technically it'll work either way, just less consistently having lower mechanical advantage. Sounds more like a canned response than actual advice.
  4. Billm

    Billm Member

    accuracy of z axis micro switch
    for repeatability of consistent first layer prints, ideally the head should always be at the exact same height above the glass. However with a dial indicator located on the x axis transverse rods, I have seen some deviation. So I thought that the for increased accuracy the adjustment screw \/ should contact the metal lever further out on the switch arm 0___________\/_____ screw
    0 being the pivot point, /\ contact point /\
    now the actual switch contact /\ | a | b |
    probably has some variances in the height at | c |
    which it actually breaks the circuit.
    So if the contact point has .0001" play then the screw could have c/a movement or .0002 - .0003 movement. It therefore seems that I should move the switch so that the screw \/ is in the a area instead of the b area.
    Any engineers out there?
  5. Billm

    Billm Member

    the post took out the format
    o___________\/_____ screw
    -------/\ switch contact
    |--a---|-----b------|
    |---------c----------|
    o lever pivot
  6. cosber

    cosber Active Member

    If you're trying to tell us you think the switch should be reversed, then yes, it seems to be the consensus around here. Simple to do.
  7. Dime333

    Dime333 Member

    With much help from Tessaract in another thread I had, we have come to find out that my rails are warped and that is what is causing my issue, it's not the curling it's that the bed is always unlevel because it constantly moves( on the rails) throwing off my Z height making it as consistent as our Missouri weather. I have yet to contact Robo on this matter because I need to measure the distance it flexes, all it takes is the pressure of placing my finger on the end of the bed and you can see it teeter up and down. I have yet to use my bed levelers that I printed, have to get the springs first but I don't think those will matter at this point. Also yes the switch needs to look like an alligator is eating you, to put it easily lol.
  8. OMG Really!

    OMG Really! Member

    Dime333, just read through your 'pain'with dribbles, and then hotend temp...... did you get it sorted out?
  9. Dime333

    Dime333 Member

    Well i thought i did fix the issue by fixing the broken smooth rod support, it was cracked the whole time, so i fixed it ran a calibration cube printed no problem, tried to print the dial indicator again and it messed up again. Started to not infill about 20 layers in or so. I really am almost done with this damn thing anyone want a Robo with a new e3d hotend?
  10. AxisLab

    AxisLab Active Member

    Dime, I'm brand new and only a few days into printing with a new Robo. First printer ever!
    I completely feel you on feeling at a loss. I am still trying to get a single good print but have so much to wrap my head around.
    I know if I focus on the good progress daily and take a whiskey break on the MANY bad prints, Damn if it doesn't make it more fun. At least you got the cal cube to print, that's a plus. I'm still working at that level lol.

    I'm actually trying to print the same Spool holder you posted a couple days ago and having trouble.
    Just curious, how long was the job time printed all at once? and what % infill did you set?
    I am trying to print it one part at a time but am brand new and uh,,, yeah, you know.
  11. Dime333

    Dime333 Member

    Hey AxisLab I printed it at whatever slicer has which i think is 60%, but in the profile settings I have it at .5 like the manual says. It has not been a fun battle at all with this printer, there are a lot of people that are having good luck with theirs and that's awesome but I am apparently not in the same category.

    I understand that this is a new printer and a new company, but the technology has been around for a loooong time and the issues everyone else is having with the printers should not be so many. My issue I am sure is completely different than yours as I have a different hotend which COULD be the problem but it COULD be something else too :confused: who knows lol, this is supposed to be the fun part right? :rolleyes:

    As far as how long it took to do that spool holder I really can't remember but just print them all at once it will save time in the long run, I think there is another one on thingiverse that is for the robo but doesn't take as many parts which would be better in your situation. (and apparently mine lol) it's right here man.
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:158289
  12. Dime333

    Dime333 Member

    Nevermind that one only works with these weird spools which could be from Robo themselves,I am not sure as I have bought mine from Amazon.
  13. Dime333

    Dime333 Member

  14. AxisLab

    AxisLab Active Member

    Thanks for the suggestions, I initialy tried that one with the robo logo first and ran into problems. Maybe I will revisit and try it a little bit different.

    I'm curious, and I'm sorry if you have been through this as I have not read all your posts or much of the forum yet, But have you measured your filament consistancy or tried other filament besides what you got from amazon? I know if the spool has any variation in the filament It will cause it to work sometimes and not others.
    I ordered two spools from robo themselves and of coarse I'm brand new but it seems okay to me.. I can mail you a few feet of it as a sample to try and see if it makes any difference. It is PLA however and it sounds like you are working in abs now but just putting out there anyway.
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson Well-Known Member

    Heh, I had everything dialed in nice for the stock hotend, swapped to the E3D and just now getting back to where the prints are solid and reliable again. Takes some tuning.
  16. Dime333

    Dime333 Member

    Yes I am on ABS now I do however have material from 3 different people. I have a roll of PLA from Amazon, BS from Amazon, and ABS from Microcenter they have filament in the stores in case anyone needs it in a pinch.

    I really do not think my material is suspect here as I have printed with all three materials at different times with good results. The odds of it being the bad 3 quarters of the way through are plausible but most likely not realistic. The filament however is 1.79 and that's within the tolerances recommended for filament so I really don't know back to flipping coins I assume.
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson Well-Known Member

    The only differences I have experienced is the best melt temp. for the various filaments. Each roll seems different even if bought from the same vendor. YMMV (void where prohibited, etc.)

    The E3D hotend replacement meant all of the temperatures changed... Seems the new thermistor runs colder (so I have to run the temp a bit hotter).

    (I have bought filament from at least 4 different sources too.)
  18. Dime333

    Dime333 Member


    I have been talking with tesseract and we dont think its temp related because it puts dwon the first 10 sometimes 20 layers evenly and i have it set to drop 5 degrees from first layer to all the rest and even that I bumped up because of your thread I saw about adjusting the temp for the E3d, so its got to be something mechanical.

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