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How to fix a clogged nozzle

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by JDM_, Jul 11, 2013.

  1. JDM_

    JDM_ Active Member

    I have a clogged nozzle.... How do I fix without damaging it? I tried pushing filament through but that didn't work. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

    If its ABS you can soak it in acitone. Is this filastuder filament?
     
  3. JDM_

    JDM_ Active Member

    Yes and yes. I didn't follow the Filastruder advice. I was suppose to let it run for 8 hrs to allow allow all the impurities to get out before getting usable filament. I probably my only did half of that.

    So I have to completely disassemble the extruded assembly?
     
  4. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

    There could be metal stuck in there, you could possibly stick a drill bit up the nozzle to push anything stuck back up, I would do it while heated, this is risky though as you could damage the nozzle.
     
  5. JDM_

    JDM_ Active Member

    maybe a piece or wire would work?
     
  6. tesseract

    tesseract RoBo3D Forum Moderator Staff Member

    This is one is fun....not. This is not a real easy process but it seemed to work for me and it may not be the best way.
    One thine I would do as a check first is the list
    make sure extruder is heated to at least 175 move the z axis up about 20mm and hit the extrude button if filament comes out you probably do not need to do this procedure, also I would try going through the changing filament process and see if it can indeed be pushed through. If not proceed at own risk.

    Step 1 remove not end from chassis, two screws on the side of the chassis just in front of the extruder motor need to be removed. These are long screws and actually hold everything in place so be careful taking them out.As they do come out the hot end may simply drop out and it is made from PEEK and could break if it just dropped out so be careful and allow the hot end to gently slide out. You will also have to remove the Kapton tape so have some more on hand to hold things in place again when you are done.

    Step 2 the nozzle at this point should be simple to unscrew from the PEEK part but due to heat expansion and the different materials involved it probably won't unscrew easily. The trick I found was to heat the extruder again and as it heats up there should come a point where it does unscrew fairly easily but things will probably be too hot too hold easily I used a two wrenches and gently applied pressure to unscrew them. Again the materials are PEEK and brass and can be damaged so be careful. The heat may also soften any material left behind which may also be hold things in place.

    Step 3 PEEK SECTION: Once the two parts are apart. Examine the PTFE plastic tube inside the PEEK it should be in fairly normal condition Mine had some residue which easily scraped off with just my finger nail and had some build up at the tip which I also cleaned after that the PTFE tube looked pretty good. ALL this was done while it was in the PEEK. The PEEK and the PTFE tube must look in fairly good shape if either are melted they need to be replaced and it means thing got way too hot at the HOT END.

    Step 4 NOZZLE: The trick here was getting into the nozzle hole, I found that a single strand of 20 Gauge stranded wire would fit nicely so I cut 2" piece stripped the plastic casing and removed a single strand. So from the nozzle end I used that to try and push back any material.From the other side, where the PEEK assembly screwed in I used a small drill bit and simply twisted it with my finger to try and catch on any material that may exist and take off little chunks of it and then tip it over and tapped it on the surface to dislodge anything that did loosen up working form both side as best as I could I managed to get the wire through the nozzle to come out the other side freely. At this point I used the wire like a little scrubber by pushing it through from the nozzle side until a large segment of wire was through and visible on the other side I then crumpled up the wire on that side into a small bundle of twisted wire not to tight but enough so it would be hard to pull directly back through the nozzle. I then did just that I pulled it from the nozzle side and forced teh wire to straighten out before coming through, I was also twisting on it to have the wires act like small little scrapers to try and remove any excess material I could. If the hot end is clogged really badly you can try heating it your an oven to try and get the material to a softer point and the follow the procedure above and repeat as necessary. IF the material you think the nozzle is clogged with has a solvent like acetone the soaking the nozzle itself will also soften the material inside or eventually dissolve it completely. Only do this to the brass nozzle.

    Step 5 Once the nozzle and PEEK are both cleaned to an acceptable point simply screw the pieces back together and replace the assembly back in the chassis. You may see two small grooves in the slot on the PEEK where those first two screws held it in place. It is kind of key to get those lined up with holes in the chassis and with the nozzle tip also postion where it was originally on the left side and squared to the front when viewed form the front. This may be tricky but everything must also be tight. Do not break the PEEK though.When it is done the assembly can be slid into the chassis and the two screws replaced I would do this very very evenly as the screws themselves may help align the PEEK slot back into its original position so both screws can be screwed in completely. Remember these are only screws and you do not want to break one of these off inside the chassis. If this does happen you will most have to print or buy a new chassis piece. Once both screws are back in replace the kapton tape hold in the wires in place for the heater and thermocouple and you should be done.

    Good luck and all I can say is this is how I did mine there may be other ways possible sorry if it is too long but it should be complete.
     
    JDM_ and harry like this.
  7. Wow, thats complicated.. I just heat it up, remove nozzle, extrude until the crap comes out. Retract. You can turn off heat at this point.

    Then I just heat the nozzle up with a torch until the plastic burns out and blow out the ash with a air.

    Im using my own design extruder mind you so maybe that's the diff.

    I do find the j-head extruders plug up more than the annular ones.
     
  8. JDM_

    JDM_ Active Member

    Printer back up an running. I heated up the nozzle and used a wire to unclog it. It took a while because the only wire I found small enough was not very stiff. I'm not sure if I got it all...but... it's extruding and printing now however the filament is coming out at an angle which suggest to me it is not 100% unclogged.

    I need a stronger wire to get up in there better. Maybe a guitar string.
     
  9. JDM_

    JDM_ Active Member

    Shit! Happened again.
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1373579433.627478.jpg
     
  10. JDM_

    JDM_ Active Member

    Looks like I might had to use Jeff's advice here.

    While Imelda taking this apart does anyone know of a good all metal hot end that will fit RoBo? I'm wanting to print some nylon and PC.
     
  11. tesseract

    tesseract RoBo3D Forum Moderator Staff Member

    It may not be clogged up but jammed up you may need to look at the PTFE plastic tube inside the PEEK piece which means going trhough the process I described above at least to determine what kind of condition the tube is in if it is melted or anything you have a different set of issues have you been running a fan on the hot end or just by itself.

    After the filament goes into the hot end the next thing it hits is that PTFE tube if it is messed up that would be the most likely source
     
  12. JDM_

    JDM_ Active Member

    Ok. I will take it apart an have a looksy. Do you know of any all metal hot ends that will fit RoBo?
     
  13. tesseract

    tesseract RoBo3D Forum Moderator Staff Member

    I would also check to make sure the filament is entering the top in a directly downward direction, going in at an angle could be allowing the filament to come off the hobbed bolt to the side and force the jamming but after that point it is most likely internal
     
  14. tesseract

    tesseract RoBo3D Forum Moderator Staff Member

    I have the E3D all metal one seems to be doing well and is a good price only issue is it is out of England and is about a 3 week turn around. It is supposed to fit right in the same whole but the locking mechanism may be an issue(those two bolts) on mine they seemed like they actually cut into the PEEK abit. That will be hard to do for aluminum without breaking the bolt I think Cambo is working on an alternate method to lock it down.

    At this point I am still using the one that came with ROBO
     
  15. pclabtech

    pclabtech Member

    I have had that picture happen 4 times, most of the time it's caused by the filament kinking right at the hole near the hobble exit so it doesn't go straight in, so I just reverse, snip, reinsert.
     
  16. JDM_

    JDM_ Active Member

    With RoBo or another printer?
     
  17. pclabtech

    pclabtech Member

    The Robo... I don't know if it's how the spool is being fed, or Cambo's mention that the hobbled bolt is not recessed enough but I think it's the victim of slippage off the feed bolt that causes the kink
     
  18. tesseract

    tesseract RoBo3D Forum Moderator Staff Member

    The simple test for this is to change to a new filament. when you open the filament loading area by loosening the two bolts be on the lookout for little scrapings inside while this does not prove the nozzle is blocked just make sure the hobbed bolt is not filled in with filament scrapings blow out any residue put new filament in the hole and before you close up push downand see if filament comes out the bottom. If it does then your nozzle is most likely not blocked. I would then close it all up and raise the z axis and have the system do an extrude of say 50mm if it comes out again then it may have been that the hobbed bolt was just clogged up. If it does not, open up the filament chamber again and see if it is still clean. If it is jammed up in side and shows a lot of residue you may have a melted PTFE tube that is blocking the filament from going down easily
     
    JDM_ likes this.
  19. JDM_

    JDM_ Active Member

    Thanks Jeff. I plan on attacking this issue tomorrow morning. I did see some shavings in there but I assumed that was from the filament it was trying to push through.
    I'm also going to Lowes to find a .3 mm wire that I can use to clean out the nozzle.
     
  20. tesseract

    tesseract RoBo3D Forum Moderator Staff Member

    you can also use a single strand from 20 Gauge stranded wire just remove the casing and use a single strand
     
    JDM_ likes this.

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